Making you own glue is a wonderful experience but do not expect to find a "super glue here". They worked with what they had, which includes (plus a modern cheat):
While the traditional hide glues and sinew/hide lashings had a weakness to moisture, they found a cure in pitch. While it took me several years of trial and error to discover their secrets (no Internet back then) I offer you the secrets in as long as it takes you to read. Have fun!
Making your own hide glue is a waste of time as it takes many hours, is a messy/stinky process and you can buy pre-made stuff now for way cheaper than you can make it for. Still stubborn enough to try it, well read on.
It first starts with saving your hide and sinew scraps - no leather will not work.
To save time, cut them into small pieces and place into a pot. When you have enough, add water and make a soup. Place over a burner and bring it just below boiling and stir occasionally. You may need to add more water as it burns off as steam - you do not want it to burn.
You can tell when the hide is breaking down as it will foam into a goo. Once it does completely pour it through a strainer or collect it through other methods.
It is ready to use. What you do not use will dry and can be used later by reheating.
It is not water soluble and will wreck with high humidity, water or blood. Indians solved this problem by further soaking the lashings/glue in bees wax or pitch (sap).
Measurements (Does not have to be exact but close)
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4 parts Sap (from Pine or Spruce trees)
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1 part Ground Charcoal
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1/4 part Animal Fat or Less (Note: Some people do not even add this)
Pine Pitch is not a glue and will not work as such. It is simply a filler used to fill excess spaces made when hafting items. It also works as a sealer for sinew, hide and hide glue to prevent them from giving loose when wet.
With that said, it is an important part in traditional haftings and is a pleasure to work with in every part.
The most enjoyable part is collecting the sap (pitch). You can get the sap from Spruce or Pine trees (only trees that I have tried) which both work equally. You want to get the almost white, fresh, sap from open wounds on the tree. I use to feel guilty for slicing a tree and coming back later so I went to campgrounds where it seems many people do not share my concern and have buried their hatchet in many trees.
If you do not have a campground in your area but trees that you can cut, put a couple of diagonal cuts in a tree. Sap will run similar to water so where you think that it will run, place a small can/cup under the area to catch the sap as it comes out.
Otherwise, just use a dull knife to scrape the sap into a bucket of some sort. Be as careful as you can not to include bark and other items that will just add time later. Also the old amber and dried sap will not work as good as it is brittle.
Once you have half a coffee can or 1/4'' of an ice cream pale that will be enough for a while, but it is always better to error on the side of more.
Now go through your collection and pick any non-sap items out.
Put a small amount in a tuna fish can (or pot) and heat slowly - do not bring to a boil - and stir. It will take a while to melt. When it is liquid pour through a metal strainer into another pot. This will separate any bark or other items. Each time measure the amount of pitch going in.
Once done with that, take some animal fat such as bacon grease, animal fat or Crisco (available at any food store). Measure it to 1/4 (fat) to 4 (pitch) and add it to the pot with the pitch. Too much will ruin it so it is better to start small and add as you need it. Some sites say to add one part and others say to add none? I have found 0 can be brittle and 1 part is wax that does not work. There are many other factors, I am sure, but less is better.
Now for the boring process. Take charcoal (smaller the better) and grind it down to dust. I use a flat piece of hard wood to place the charcoal on and a flat rock. It is very important to grind it down to dust as any chunks will be a weak spot in the glue. I then dump the dust onto a piece of paper and funnel it into the measuring can.
The dust will mess with your lungs so a mask is recommended. A fan will just blow it everywhere.
When you have 1 part of ash to 4 parts of pitch, add this to the pot.
Now heat the pot, but not to a boil, and stir constantly until it is a well mixed soup. If it does boil, don't worry too much as I have boiled mine for 40 minutes to get rid of excess fat with little problems but it does seem to work slightly better without being brought to that temperature.
Now the Indians use to then pour it into several holes in the sand to let dry. I do something differently that I suspect that they may have done as well. Take some broken twigs/sticks (size don't matter but I use 5/16'') and dip into the pot and remove. Let it dry to test. If it:
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dries hard but not brittle: you have the perfect mix.
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dries hard and brittle: you need more fat. Add more fat, stir and try again.
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dries but is waxy: you have too much fat. Add more ash and pitch and try again or boil for 30 minutes and try again.
Once satisfied dip more sticks repeatedly. Each time the removed stick will harden and can be dipped in repeatedly until it has a thick round ball of pine pitch on it. This part though does require the pot to be in cooling mode (turned off). If it is too hot it will just melt the stuff on the stick and you will be going nowhere fast.
Once you are satisfied with the pine pitch ball the stick can be placed aside and left to dry. Repeat that process until all of the pine pitch is gone.
Now you have pine pitch sticks that can be stored for years and used as you need them.
How to use them
When I use them on areas that have big holes I need filled like tomahawks I use a lighter to light the pitch stick on fire - it will catch fire very easily which is why the Indians also made pitch torches. Once the pitch stick is on fire I hold it down to let the hot pitch drip into the areas needed to be filled.
For knifes, another method is to take a lighter and heat the pitch for about 20 seconds. Then lick your finger to prevent them from burning and mould it onto the area. Then use the lighter to finish it. Some practice will be required in this area.
It is a science though depending upon your area and humidity. For example, too much char can make it brittle while not enough can make it remain sticky. Just like fat, too much can make it remain like fresh chewed bubble gum.
If this happens to you, as it has to me many times, then you can just re-heat and add more pitch and charcoal testing constantly till you get it right.
Warning: Pitch will catch fire very quickly and any drips on skin will burn instantly.
This is the method most "Traditionalist" use now-a-days as it is the cheapest, quickest and most authentic method.
Take one package (1 tbsp) of Knox gelatine, which is available at any supermarket. It depends on the amount of glue that you need, but lets say a lot. Add the package of 15 ml (or 1 tbsp) to 50 ml. of hot water in a coffee cup and stir. Microwave for 1 minute or until it starts to bubble over. When it does, take it out and stir quickly.
You know have 5+ minutes to apply the glue before it starts to gel. Otherwise keep it on a burner at medium heat. You will have to scrape off the top dried part though. It is that simple.
You can do two things here. Either use a paint brush to dip into the glue and wipe it onto the area to be hafted and lashings afterwards or dip the hide/sinew into the glue and wring out before lashing it to the area. If you do the latter method just make sure that the glue is not too hot or it will cook the sinew.
This stuff is made from pig bones/hide so it is the real stuff less the mess and time!
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This Page Was Last Updated August 30, 2010
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