Tools

Although many knappers swear that either antler or copper are better, I find that each of them have their individual benefits and weaknesses. I would recommend a combination of both but it usually depends upon what you were originally taught. Personally I try to stay away from the "copper vs. antler" debate as anyone (modern or primitive) would have used the best tools available. Again, I prefer to use them both.

Copper Boppers		I have not built successful "copper boppers" yet, but thanks to Tom Robertson and Hillbilly for their generous gifts, I have these tools that work great!
Antler Billets		I really like the flakes that these moose billets generate, even though the copper does make the job a lot easier. Thanks for the antler Jae! (The bottom right is a deer billet.)
Stone Boppers		Although my hammerstone collection varies from time to time, they are generally soft. In fact I broke two a month ago breaking down a nodule for a tomahawk. The good part though, is that there is an abundant supply of these stones. They all differ in size, weight and shape, each with their own distinct purposes.
Pressure Flakers		These pressure flakers work great and are similar to ones recommended by Craig Ratzat on his Lap Knapping Video. They are attached to delrin handles and ground circles are in the handles to prevent slippage. The other two are a deer tine and a deer tine tip inserted into a wood handle and wrapped tight with leather strapping.
Ishi Stick		I have tried to work some irregularities out of a stone with the pressure flakers above but only seemed to put out my wrists and elbows. Then I heard of the Ishi stick. That weekend I made it and rushed home to give it a try, and wow was I pleasantly surprised. I placed it between my body and arm and using my legs, I pushed the same flake off with ease. Whenever I have a difficult section, I now rely on this tool. I have a better one out of delin that is 24 inches and works even better.
Notchers		Here are my is my horseshoe nail notcher.If your like me, and just about every knapper I have talked to, notching causes the most grief. I would recommend a diamond file as the biggest problem seems to be rounding the edges.
Shearing Tool		This shearing tool is used to take off the deltas and create one side to be below the center line. The flat sides of the pressure flaker work as well but I find this one to be better as it allows me to angle it better thus preventing flat edges.
Abrading Stones		I haven't used those fancy bench grinding stones but have used hand grind stones from hardware shops but have found them to be too aggressive on obsidian and finer stones and edges. My preference is this sandstone. It has the added benefit of leaving dust on the edges that helps mark the platforms and adds extra grip to the pressure flaker tip.
Hand Pads		Here is the rubber hand pad that I use. These are great for preventing those little nail hinges, but also are harder to use and breakage is greater. Therefore it is advisable to glue wood or a hard bottom to it to prevent bending. I mostly use a variety of leather padding with elk and buffalo being the most preferred.
Scrapers		I use a variety of scrapers, most of which are left over flakes from the reduction phase. The flint scrapers are my favourite, followed by obsidian, which are sharper but weaker. I have also set a small Brazilian agate blade onto a handle which allows me to have more control over where I pull/push the bark. Of course, I forgot to include a pocket knife for those days that I do not have patience for traditional techniques.
Arrow Straigtener		It is amazing to watch how, after the bark is removed, the arrows will dry. Some remain straight while others bend almost making a complete circle. Robert Killgo provided me with some good advice on making your own arrows of which I use today. Most importantly straighten them a bit every other day. For the thicker ones I use this arrow straightener which is as easy to make as it looks. Any handle and cup clip will do, as long as it is strong and large enough for its purposes. Since I made this, I have learnt that primitive man often drilled holes into antler that would serve the same purpose. For my traditional arrows I have a similar one made from bone.
Arrow Sander		In order to get a uniform shape when sanding I found a drill bit that fits the width of the arrows that I prefer to make and then I drilled a hole into a large dowel. From there, I found the center line and cut it in half. I wrap an arrow in sand paper and place it in the middle of the tool, grasp it tightly and run it up and down the arrow. For my traditional arrows I have a similar one made from stone.

The hardest part is finding the right tools to use. In many cities or towns, these materials cannot be purchased or found. It is best to talk to hunters that you know or individuals who work with metal. The following materials can be used, and sometimes purchased at building supply outlets, as a substitute for antler. They are:

It generally doesn't matter what size they are as one should make whatever materials are available work for their individual tastes.

The tools are easy to make but I would recommend, if it is your first try, to get a tool of an expert like Glenn Witchey (noted in the links at the end of this page). Trust me, good tools will save you frustration and money in valuable stone not wasted.

To make pressure flakers, you simply have to find the copper or aluminum and a delrin rod, broom handle or dowel. I would recommend the delrin as the wood rips and is in constant need of replacement. There are also pin vices but I haven't tried them yet but they work great as well and are probably the easiest. First round the edges on the handle, especially on the insertion side to allow it to rebound off of the rock in case of a hit. Now drill a hole, just about the same size as the rod, into a handle and fit it in. I like to leave an inch sticking out of the handle. If it is too much, it will bend on you on harder stone. Then you can (1) use a vice grip to squeeze and turn the top into a point, (2) use a hammer to smash it down or (3) file it to a point. I have done them all and they all are effective. When the copper wears down simply re-work it or pull it out of the handle with vice grips, insert a plug, and re-hammer it in. Simple as that. I use a rounded copper flaker as well (not pictured above) that gives wider flakes and is great for working of the straight edges of a slab. The ones pictured above are pounded into a square by carefully hammering down each side equally and tapers to the point. It is important to keep these tips files smooth so that scratches do not catch the edge and ruin the flake. The main problem with these tips is the constant rework. On average for a 3 inch point, I have to file it around ten times.